Building a garden fence is not at all rocket science; all you need to do is to follow some simple steps, and you are all set. You must check our website to learn how to build a garden fence.  We are known for excellent garden fences and customizable designs.

If you’re Elmer Fudd, sending an Acme Pest Control robot after Bugs Bunny will thwart carrot thieves. If you’re a seasoned gardener, then we are sure that you would know how to build a garden fence.

We offer two types of varmints, with wide, welded-wire mesh panels to keep out rabbits and dogs, and tighter, PVC-coated galvanized wire buried below to stymie woodchucks and moles on the underground. In garden modifications such as mulch and compost, a gate at each end allows you to wheelbarrow.

The senior technical editor of the Old House, Mark Powers, will show you how to use standard building materials–not mechanical mercenaries–to preserve and protect.

Determine the four angles of the fence, roughly. Use 2-foot-tall stakes and mason line to mark all four sides, stretching out multiple feet at each end so that they cross at the corners.

Then square the edges using the Pythagorean theorem: hammer in a stake 3 feet from one pair of intersecting lines, touching the string; then mark 4 feet from the same corner on the other edge using a felt-tip marker.

Measure it as shown between the stake and the mark and adjust the marked line to a distance of 5 feet between the two. Repeat the squaring process for the remaining corners.

Hang a string level on each line, and level it off the ground about 12 inches, to represent the top of the lower rail. Then, if the grade is level, do notch on each stake the location of the strings. If the garden slopes, weigh at each corner between the level lines and the ground; if the distance between the four is more than one foot, using 12-foot posts in the lower corners.

Using spray paint, as shown, at the position of each corner post. Then measure off the string lines to determine the field posts locations 8 feet away, and mark the areas within the strings. Finally, mark places for the gateposts 36 inches apart in the middle of two sides, allowing for a gate wide enough to accommodate a wheelbarrow.

In a trench that extends outside the stakes, the PVC-coated galvanized wire lies below ground. To large projects, borrow a trencher, or use a spade and a trenching tool to smaller ones. Direct it with a trencher, so it cuts just outside the postholes, cutting down about 18 inches. Then use a spade to excavate the strip 12 inches down between the footings and the pit, forming a stepped drain.

Use 2×4 scrap with a post on a work surface to mark the notch location for 15 inches down from one end of the upper rail. Then make a mark 561⁄2 inches away for the bottom rail. Repeat the process on the other corner posts, carrying the marks around corners using a rafter square. Mark up only one face on the field posts and gateposts.

Use 2×4 scrap as a measuring gauge to set the circular saw depth. Make several passes on two adjoining facets of the corner posts between the rail marks. Knock the slivers free with a hammer and then, as shown, clean the notches with a chisel. Similarly, cut field posts and gateposts.

It is very important to know how to build a garden fence.

For a detailed view on how to build a garden fence, visit our website and you can get advice from our experts too.